The greatest question Allen & Ginter asks collectors each year is whether or not to rip the ever elusive rip card. I recently pulled my first ever rip card, which are seeded 1 per case. As a result, Kyle Blanks has been staring at me for 3 straight days.
I've gone back and forth over 100 times on whether or not to rip it. Do I submit to impulse or do the "practical" thing and sell it on eBay? That is a question with no real answer. Here's a complete list of what exactly can be ripped out of a 2010 Allen & Ginter rip card:
- 50 Different Mini Exclusives (cards number 351-400 in the mini set)
- Mini Red Autographs numbered to 10
- Mini 1/1 Wood Exclusives
- Mini 1/1 Allen & Ginter Original Sketch Cards Signed By Artist Jeff Zachowski
- An Authentic 1887 Allen & Ginter Original
If your rip card contains a regular mini exclusive, your looking at $20-$120 on eBay depending on the quality of the player. If you pull a Red Auto, Wood, Original Sketch Card, or an original 1887 Allen & Ginter, you should reap the rewards of the rip.
The highest numbering of a rip card itself is 99, which is exactly what mine is numbered to. The Rip Card numbered to 99 offers the greatest dilemma, as a rip card of any other number would sell for far more on eBay. If mine was numbered to 5, this would be an extremely easy decision. A rip card numbered to 5 would easily sell for around $200-$600.
Odds say you should always sell a rip card "un-ripped" on eBay, but then why did you take the same risk ripping the box to stop short of ripping the rip card? The odds of pulling a rip card are the same as pulling something awesome out of a rip card.
Note: Contrary to popular belief mini-card #401 Stephen Strasburg does not come out of a rip card.